Kings and basilicas: Spain’s Royal Couple at St. Mary Major

“Que vivaaaa Españaa!” (“Long live Spain!”) On this cool day marking the transition from winter to spring, an atmosphere reminiscent of a mini-World Cup reigned on the steps of the Basilica of St. Mary Major. The king of Spain was arriving!

The crowd was intrigued by the arrival of the procession. Among them were a few Spanish tourists and pilgrims who loudly expressed their enthusiasm at the appearance of their sovereign. Felipe VI had come to assume his title of “proto-canon” of St. Mary Major.

Inside the basilica, the atmosphere was more solemn. The king and queen walked down the central aisle, accompanied by the archpriest of the Basilica of St. Mary Major, the Lithuanian Cardinal Rolandas Makrickas, who went the extra mile to deliver his welcome remarks in impeccable Spanish.

In a brief speech, the king paid tribute to Pope Francis, who is buried in this basilica. “His pontificate was an ethical beacon for humanity; a reference point for believers and non-believers alike, through his approachability, wisdom, and compassion, particularly toward the most disadvantaged,” declares the king, echoing the words of his tribute delivered upon the pope’s death in 2025.

He expressed delight at finding “that same sensitivity” in Leo XIV, whom he had met with his wife, Queen Letizia, just minutes earlier. “We spoke of the times we’re living in; of these days when we so desperately need clarity: clarity in deeds and words; clarity of heart and conscience,” he added, in the context of a chaotic international landscape.

The ceremony opened with a Hail Mary, and included a prayer in Latin for the monarch and the reading of a passage from the Book of Wisdom. After the speeches, Cardinal Makrickas invited the king to take his place alongside the other canons, who were visibly amused and delighted to count such a prestigious guest among their ranks. An Our Father was recited to conclude the ceremony.

The celebration was attended by many figures from the Spanish community in Rome, as well as members of the diplomatic corps accredited to the Holy See. Among them, an ambassador from Latin America told Aleteia of his esteem for the King of Spain and his father, Juan Carlos. The monarchs had helped consolidate democracy during their visits overseas to his country. “For us, the King of Spain is a gateway to Europe,” he noted, demonstrating that the resonance of this celebration at St. Mary Major extended far beyond Spain alone.

In a symbolism akin to the title of “honorary canon” of St. John Lateran bestowed upon the president of the French Republic, the king of Spain holds the title of “proto-canon” of St. Mary Major, which he receives by right upon his coronation. For his part, the king of England was formally received as a “Royal Confrère” of the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls.

The title for the Spaniard dates back to the early 17th century, in the context of a donation made to the basilica by the wife of King Philip III of Spain, for the reliquary of the cradle of the Infant Jesus kept there. In gratitude, the chapter then asked the king for the “royal patronage” of the basilica, which entailed assuming responsibility for its upkeep, a request the monarch accepted.

His son Philip IV increased the endowment, and in response, Pope Innocent X decreed in a papal bull that the King of Spain and his successors would receive the title of proto-canon of this basilica.

But in four centuries of history, Felipe VI is only the third monarch to participate in this ceremony, following Alfonso XIII, who did so on November 21, 1923, and Juan Carlos on February 10, 1977, during his first trip to the Vatican as head of state. A native of Rome himself, the then-young king intended to rely on the papacy to establish his authority over the still-Francoist leadership of his administration and open Spain to pluralism and democracy.

Felipe VI, for his part, waited until this, his second official visit to the Vatican to participate in this liturgical ceremony. This choice was surely linked to the particular political climate surrounding his accession to the throne in 2014, which took place in the context of his father Juan Carlos’ abdication and the new sovereign’s desire to embody a more secular conception of the monarchy.

Now, 12 years later, a tribute to Pope Francis was certainly one of the reasons for this visit to St. Mary Major. The royal couple paid their respects at his tomb. They also venerated the icon of Mary “Salus Populi Romani,” particularly dear to the Argentine pontiff.

This ceremony was also part of the preparations for Pope Leo XIV’s visit to Spain. From June 6 to 12, the Pontiff will be welcomed by the king in Madrid and will visit the Canary Islands and Barcelona. In the latter, he will visit the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia, whose construction is nearing completion after 144 years of work. He will also participate there in a meeting of Mediterranean bishops. This gathering will follow previous meetings held in Bari, Florence, and Marseille.